Jacquard Lace Braiding
TEF began its exploration of lace braiding in 2007. Since that time TEF has given new life to this important heritage technology that has, for the last century, been suppressed by trade secrets, with knowledge of pattern design, machinery, and operations confined to an small group of practitioners. |
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The distinct advantage of the Jacquard Lace Braiding machine over the conventional Maypole braiding machine is found in the motion control of individual yarns. The ability of yarns to change direction at effectively any point along their path facilitates the production of complex and irregular fabric structures. Designs are digitally engineered using TEF's interface that creates a visual representation of fiber paths for advanced patterns and two - and three-dimensional textile structures.
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Patterning
TEF's patterns are created through a sequence of linking and interlacing spiraling filaments. Sequential linking and interlacing of filaments differentiate TEF's fabrics from traditional braided materials in which one or more filaments pass alternately over or under one or more other filaments; or in which one or more filaments half-twist alternately about two or more adjacent filaments. The linking of filaments is fundamental to the dynamic behavior of TEF's textiles. |
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TEF Bodywear
TEF began experiments with elastic in 2019 with the goal of integrating elastic bands and yarns into its bodywear in specific zones, reducing waste and manufacturing steps while increasing performance. TEF is producing bands with varying characteristics using the same natural and organic yarns it uses in its bodywear, creating a unified aesthetic. |
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ALX Patterning
ALX is TEF’s patent pending dual axial, double helix structure. Opposed helices link to create balanced tension throughout the fiber networks, enhancing flexibility and load distribution. These bands expand longitudinally and transversely and can be patterned for a range of stretch parameters. |
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XHELX Patterning
XhelX lattice patterns are TEF’s patented biaxial plexus—essentially two hammocks that cross paths and interlace. This creates a unique, hexagonal pattern that forms flawlessly over a myriad of shapes and sizes. These bands expand longitudinally and transversely and can be patterned for a range of stretch parameters. |
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Band Iterations
TEF has created a broad range of patterns for elastic bands. The pictured bands expand longitudinally but not transversely due to the arrangement of filaments within the patterned structure. The PDH patterned band illustrated uses inherent characteristics of cotton and linen yarn to provide subtle tension variations, using minimal integrated elastane edging. |
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Zonal Patterning
The lace braiding machine allows individual yarns to change direction at effectively any point along their path. This capacity facilitates the ability to zonally engineer elastic bands with different patterns along their length, providing engineered function in targeted areas. |
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Filaments > Yarns
TEF has been using natural filaments such as cotton, linen and wool to create bands with a softer feel and organic aesthetic for its bodywear. These natural filaments are helically braided with an elastane core of varying densities to create the yarn. TEF has also experimented with spandex/polyester yarn, incorporating it into bodywear in specific zones. |
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Most fibers with a reasonable degree of flexibility can be patterned. TEF has worked with natural, synthetic, high performance, specially twisted and braided hybrid yarns.
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